{"id":228,"date":"2024-03-28T18:27:48","date_gmt":"2024-03-28T17:27:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mythosmedia.fr\/?p=228"},"modified":"2024-03-28T19:52:55","modified_gmt":"2024-03-28T18:52:55","slug":"diporto-lincarnation-de-la-taverne-grecque-qui-risque-de-disparaitre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mythosmedia.fr\/?p=228","title":{"rendered":"Diporto, l’incarnation de la taverne grecque qui risque de dispara\u00eetre"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cr\u00e9\u00e9 en 1911, Diporto a r\u00e9cemment \u00e9t\u00e9 vendu \u00e0 des investisseurs \u00e9trangers. Au grand dam des habitu\u00e9s de la plus vieille taverne ath\u00e9nienne, qui craignent de devoir trouver une nouvelle cantine.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aucune affiche, aucun encart, aucune publicit\u00e9. Pour trouver Diporto, il faut chercher, autour du march\u00e9 central, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 trouver une file d\u2019attente sortant d\u2019une cave. Les Grecs patientent, assis sur les marches, qu\u2019une place se lib\u00e8re \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur. Et n\u2019h\u00e9sitent pas, pour passer le temps, \u00e0 engager la discussion dans un anglais balbutiant avec les rares touristes venus d\u00e9couvrir ce lieu iconique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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L’entr\u00e9e de Diporto est presque cach\u00e9e.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\u201cJe viens ici trois fois par semaine depuis presque 30 ans\u201d<\/em>, confie Giorgios. Ce sexag\u00e9naire aux mains calleuses n\u2019a plus que quelques mois de chantiers avant d\u2019enfin prendre sa retraite. Il a fait de l\u2019endroit un lieu de coupure personnel, combl\u00e9 par l\u2019ambiance, la d\u00e9coration minimaliste et les plats g\u00e9n\u00e9reux propres aux tavernes grecques. Ici, il est presque chez lui et se dirige \u00e0 peine entr\u00e9 vers les fourneaux, o\u00f9 Dimitris Kolioliolios, le propri\u00e9taire des lieux, lui montre le contenu de ses trois marmites. Le menu du jour est typique : pur\u00e9e de pois chiches (fava), soupe de l\u00e9gumes (fassoulatha) et sardines grill\u00e9es. Quant \u00e0 la boisson, \u00e0 moins de demander de l\u2019eau, le vin blanc local et – tr\u00e8s – tannique est in\u00e9vitable. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La vente, encore un sujet tabou<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Une fois install\u00e9 \u00e0 une table drap\u00e9e de serviettes de papier et en face d’inconnus, les discussions peuvent d\u00e9buter. Dans cette cantine, on parle de tout, du sport \u00e0 la politique en passant par des conseils d’endroits \u00e0 visiter. Les visages se tendent lorsqu\u2019est \u00e9voqu\u00e9e la cession r\u00e9cente de l\u2019endroit. Le 16 mars, le m\u00e9dia local Gastronomos<\/a> r\u00e9v\u00e9lait que le lieu avait \u00e9t\u00e9 c\u00e9d\u00e9 \u00e0 des investisseurs \u00e9trangers. Aucune autre nouvelle depuis, ce qui agace les habitu\u00e9s. \u201c\u00c7a m’ennuie parce que c\u2019est un lieu important pour nous<\/em>, grommelle Ianna. Mes parents l’ont connu, mes grand-parents aussi et je ne pourrai pas le montrer \u00e0 mes enfants.\u201d<\/em> La quadrag\u00e9naire aux cheveux peroxyd\u00e9s profite de ces repas pour rencontrer des gens, ce que son m\u00e9tier de secr\u00e9taire ne lui permet pas vraiment.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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M\u00eame rengaine pour Passos, dont la voix rauque porte au-dessus de sa g\u00e9n\u00e9reuse assiette de fassoulatha. \u201cLe probl\u00e8me, c\u2019est qu\u2019on ne sait pas ce que \u00e7a va devenir<\/em>, tonne l\u2019homme dont l’\u00e9motion tranche avec ses \u00e9paules musculeuses. Je ne pardonnerai pas \u00e0 Dimitris s\u2019il a vendu l\u2019endroit \u00e0 des gens venus faire du business qui enl\u00e8vent l\u2019ambiance des lieux.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La crainte de la disparition<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Du c\u00f4t\u00e9 du principal int\u00e9ress\u00e9, on fait la sourde oreille. Pas dispos\u00e9 \u00e0 parler de ses affaires personnelles, il refuse de r\u00e9pondre, pr\u00e9textant qu\u2019il a du travail. C\u2019est \u00e0 peine s\u2019il confirme la vente, officialis\u00e9e quelques jours apr\u00e8s l\u2019article de Gastronomos. Il indique aussi, sans se montrer pr\u00e9cis, qu\u2019il restera derri\u00e8re les fourneaux \u201cencore un ou deux ans\u201d.<\/em> Avant de marmonner des mots grecs \u00e0 notre encontre qu\u2019il vaut peut-\u00eatre mieux ne pas comprendre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Une assiette typique \u00e0 Diporto.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Cette langue de bois fait craindre le pire \u00e0 Giorgios. \u201cLa vente ? Je m\u2019y attendais un peu<\/em>, admet celui qui en est \u00e0 son troisi\u00e8me verre de vin. Les rumeurs disent qu\u2019il en a tir\u00e9 un excellent prix mais un endroit comme \u00e7a, \u00e7a vaut bien plus que \u00e7a ! De toute fa\u00e7on, \u00e7a fait quelques ann\u00e9es que \u00e7a a perdu son \u00e2me\u2026 Avant, il n\u2019y avait que des ouvriers qui venaient discuter. Maintenant, les gens viennent prendre des photos pour dire qu\u2019ils sont venus sans en profiter.\u201d <\/em>Une opinion remise en cause par l\u2019ambiance du jour, conviviale et sans aucun smartphone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ici, les habitu\u00e9s b\u00e9n\u00e9ficient encore et toujours de petits traitements de faveur. Dans son assiette, l\u2019ouvrier compte douze sardines, loin des quatre dont doivent se contenter d’autres tables. Et au moment de r\u00e9gler, le statut d’habitu\u00e9 compte \u00e9galement. Lui ne paiera que 8 euros, malgr\u00e9 quatre verres de vin, bien moins que les 29 euros r\u00e9clam\u00e9s \u00e0 un couple pourtant sobre. De notre c\u00f4t\u00e9, les questions sur la cession n\u2019ont pas d\u00fb plaire puisque pour un fava, un verre de vin et six sardines, la facture s’\u00e9l\u00e8ve \u00e0 18 euros. La tradition \u00e0 Diporto a encore une ou deux belles ann\u00e9es devant elle.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cr\u00e9\u00e9 en 1911, Diporto a r\u00e9cemment \u00e9t\u00e9 vendu \u00e0 des investisseurs \u00e9trangers. Au grand dam des habitu\u00e9s de la plus vieille taverne ath\u00e9nienne, qui craignent de devoir trouver une nouvelle cantine. Aucune affiche, aucun encart, aucune publicit\u00e9. Pour trouver Diporto, il faut chercher, autour du march\u00e9 central, jusqu\u2019\u00e0 trouver une file d\u2019attente sortant d\u2019une cave….<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12,"featured_media":230,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[8],"tags":[33,36,35,32,23,37,34],"yoast_head":"\nDiporto, l'incarnation de la taverne grecque qui risque de dispara\u00eetre - Mythos Media<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Cr\u00e9\u00e9 en 1911, Diporto a r\u00e9cemment \u00e9t\u00e9 vendu \u00e0 des investisseurs \u00e9trangers. 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